|
|
Post by mikedski on Feb 7, 2016 12:02:01 GMT
Ever since the introduction of the USMC and the Battle of Foss Landing I have been wanting to build my own version of the USS Ashbury. I may have figured it out with this melding of a 1:127 minesweeper model and parts from my land ironclad. I cut the hull (roughly) to give it a waterline appearance. I plan to put it on a base with water effects (any hints/ tips would be most welcome). I will put the 7 inch gun on the forward hull and two five inch mid-ship. I used the command tower for an armored bridge. My only conundrum is building up a bit of superstructure underneath the smoke stack. Maybe it's not needed? I used doors, hatches and vents from left over steam tank parts to make scale appropriate hatches  Other possibilities - adding an additional 5 inch turret or maybe an open top anti tripod gun to the aft deck. More machine guns? Modeling comments and hints are welcome. Just waiting for a good warm, dry day to begin initial spray painting. I plan to use a similar paint scheme as the turrets. |
|
|
|
Post by Quendil on Feb 7, 2016 12:08:17 GMT
Awesome. I have to steel this idea
|
|
|
|
Post by madmorgan on Feb 7, 2016 15:45:58 GMT
Beautiful working!! Please don't increase size of the superstructure under the smokestack - ships were always trying to use the shortest smokestack possible to reduce spotting on the horizon. Its big enough (diameter) to handle the powerful engine(s) for the ship and should stay as short as possible. A further deck gun after would be welcome, maybe a turreted gatling gun or tribarrel to handle escape from attempted closing boarders/hover drones. This is a really exciting model you've found - ty!
|
|
|
|
Post by mikedski on Feb 7, 2016 16:13:48 GMT
Looking at the pictures from the USMC supplement I think AOW's USS Asbury used the same model but scratch built superstructure.
I would like to add maybe a couple 50 caliber HB as they were original naval weapons. Any in 18mm?
|
|
|
|
Post by mikedski on Feb 7, 2016 16:14:59 GMT
Beautiful working!! Please don't increase size of the superstructure under the smokestack - ships were always trying to use the shortest smokestack possible to reduce spotting on the horizon. Its big enough (diameter) to handle the powerful engine(s) for the ship and should stay as short as possible. A further deck gun after would be welcome, maybe a turreted gatling gun or tribarrel to handle escape from attempted closing boarders/hover drones. This is a really exciting model you've found - ty! Mad Morgan - could you come up with some special rules for the ship? |
|
|
|
Post by loyalist on Feb 7, 2016 22:05:05 GMT
Ever since the introduction of the USMC and the Battle of Foss Landing I have been wanting to build my own version of the USS Asbury. I may have figured it out with this melding of a 1:127 minesweeper model and parts from my land ironclad. I cut the hull (roughly) to give it a waterline appearance. I plan to put it on a base with water effects (any hints/ tips would be most welcome). I will put the 7 inch gun on the forward hull and two five inch mid-ship. I used the command tower for an armored bridge. My only conundrum is building up a bit of superstructure underneath the smoke stack. Maybe it's not needed? I used doors, hatches and vents from left over steam tank parts to make scale appropriate hatches Other possibilities - adding an additional 5 inch turret or maybe an open top anti tripod gun to the aft deck. More machine guns? Modeling comments and hints are welcome. Just waiting for a good warm, dry day to begin initial spray painting. I plan to use a similar paint scheme as the turrets. Nice conversion! As Madmorgan said the funnel is high enough and imo it's too tall - I'd remove the circular structure under it and attach the funnel directly to the deck. Most ships of that era had intake ventilators on deck sometimes surrounding the base of the funnel(s). A later example of this (1921) would be HMS Hood. The AD version had a 5" gun forward vs a 7". I'd add another weapon aft to balance the profile, plus at least 6 HMGs. I'd cut off the splinter screens extending up from the hull to port and starboard of the bridge superstructure. For a lower profile I'd cut off the bridge splinter screens under the Ironclad bridge and drip it down the bridge deck level. |
|
|
|
Post by madmorgan on Feb 7, 2016 23:10:46 GMT
Beautiful working!! Please don't increase size of the superstructure under the smokestack - ships were always trying to use the shortest smokestack possible to reduce spotting on the horizon. Its big enough (diameter) to handle the powerful engine(s) for the ship and should stay as short as possible. A further deck gun after would be welcome, maybe a turreted gatling gun or tribarrel to handle escape from attempted closing boarders/hover drones. This is a really exciting model you've found - ty! Mad Morgan - could you come up with some special rules for the ship? I'd be honored. What are you going to put on the aft deck?? I'd put another 5" aft, or maybe a gatling or tribarrel, & agree some more HMGs would be good. Another thought is the Black Hat naval gatling (which they've dropped the 'naval' from, but its crew is navy). This would allow you to 'land' it with naval or marine forces. See Black Hat {EMP 276} for the figures. You know you could use my guidelines for doing your stats if you like, but, I'll be glad to submit some for you. I agree with removing the bottom stuff for the smokestack as well. I'd leave the rest, extra armor is okay and gives this one a unique look. You classifying this as a light cruiser, armored cruiser, or some kind of armored monitor?  |
|
|
|
Post by mikedski on Feb 7, 2016 23:17:52 GMT
The smoke stack is actually that tall. The structure at the base is to hold the stack in place. My goal is to swap parts with my land ironclad.
I did put the 7 inch gun forward though it seems over sized. But I would like my navy ship to have as much fire power as Mark IV monitor.
More machine guns! Also I will put another 5 inch turret aft. The Ashbury Class emphasizes close combat firepower versus endurance for riverine and costal warfare.
|
|
|
|
Post by madmorgan on Feb 7, 2016 23:22:16 GMT
Gotcha - another 5" aft and the smokeshack is holding it in place. I'll take a look and work you some stats asap.
|
|
|
|
Post by madmorgan on Feb 7, 2016 23:48:48 GMT
Okay here's my read on the USS Ashbury - first a few comments. This is a 'modern' design ship, like the USN Revenge I've done (See Ships thrend in General Rules tab). As such, its fast as well as well armored with the newest asbestos coating (Armor 11). As its scale is 1:125 vs our 1:92 for AQMF, I see little difference in a full scale model - in other words all ranges are as normal for its guns as is it being targeted by land forces.
USS Ashbury: 1 element @750pts Spd 24" Def 8 Arm 11 Spec: 1,2,4,5,6,7,8,12.
7"gun Rng 175" +4Pow Bar 3 Spec: Bombardment; fore turret #1
5"gun Rng 125" +4Pow Bar 2 Spec: Bombardment; midsection port turret #2 & starbooard turret #3 & aft turret #4
(6) HMG Rng 20" +1Pow RF 3 Spec: located as seen on the ship
As mentioned, all the info for the specials are located under the General Rules tab as Ships including the Ship Damage Table (special 8). I hope this meets your needs. Note that all the ranges are based on the power
|
|
|
|
Post by mikedski on Feb 8, 2016 0:55:26 GMT
I see your ship rules thread. Thanks!
|
|
|
|
Post by mikedski on Feb 8, 2016 10:28:23 GMT
I see your point about bridge splinter screen. I agree, I think it would look better if the armored bridge was even with the bridge deck level. But I was planning on using the empty space underneath as a magnet well for easy interchanging with the land ironclad. Still thinking about it.
|
|
|
|
Post by madmorgan on Feb 8, 2016 11:54:41 GMT
I see your ship rules thread. Thanks! Just a heads up on some points - your 7" & 3x5" & HMGs come to 460pts alone. I gave it a high speed (modern design), coated armor (usually use a little Elmirs glue to create pasty effect then paint over), the usual independent firing for the turrets as well as laying smoke screens, etc. Of coarse the ship damage table - which you're welcomed to modify to suit your ship of coarse. The final value is very close to the Revenge class I designed so I just gave it the 750pts. You can redo some of it - for example drop the armor coating, giving it a Armor 10, change the gun ranges to the games 'land' unit basis - ei, the 7" gets 40" +4 power and the 5"s get 30" +3 power - which hardly seems like a ships true worth in range and power. On my ships gun table, the major difference between the 7" & 5" is the size of the Barrage 3" vs 2". Those numbers were based roughly on the difference between the 6" howitzers and 12" guns on the land tanks - in fact the whole ship gun table is an extension of the various referrences to off-shore rules that Ernie had started with the initial Marine forward observers, which he dropped in the final pdf for the Marines. You could also reduce the speed - if so reduce the Defense as well, as that high "8" is a reflection on its speed. All in all, I think the Ashburn is a pretty fair representation of the vessal you've gloriously constructed and I look forward to your first scenario with pics based around it. One question I have is how you're going to work the alternating 'pulse' fire for a ship - its rather like a LIC, so how do you do those with that nice alternating unit system? Cheers and ty for the beautiful work. PS: please use the magnets for your ship as that will allow a much cleaner apperance and until you find a good source for same sized guns. |
|
|
|
Post by boxholder on Feb 8, 2016 12:53:05 GMT
To get some pretty good looking water, hit the model railroad section and take a look at Woodland Scenics Water Effects. It is a kind of thick acrylic that will hold wave shapes.
Another option is artists acrylic "matte medium" or "gloss medium." These are both thick enough to hold wave shapes and ripples.
You can get the acrylic medium at just about any art&craft place: Michael's, JoAnn's, AC Moore, Hobby Lobby, etc.
|
|
|
|
Post by madmorgan on Feb 8, 2016 12:54:25 GMT
Vallejo also makes an excellent line of 'water effects' as well.
|
|
