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Post by phgamer on Jun 9, 2016 13:06:49 GMT
I understand what you are saying, and realize things have to be disproportionate to be playable. If we were to put a ship on the board the size of the fictional "Thunder Child", it would be 28" long. While actual battleships of the era would be over 4 feet. Suddenly those tripods look like tinker toys!
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Post by charleybourne on Jun 9, 2016 13:16:41 GMT
"Selective compression", I like that boxholder. As long as it's not crazy big or ludicrously small a fair representation that looks good is all good.
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Post by mikedski on Jun 9, 2016 14:17:13 GMT
I personally imagine I am are just seeing the back 10 - 20 % of the entire cylinder. Martians know how to pack and cannabilize the cylinder to make machines.
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Post by Quendil on Jun 9, 2016 15:23:30 GMT
Hmmm so I need to redo my cylinder and find a pipe 10 to 12" wide
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Post by boxholder on Jun 9, 2016 19:40:48 GMT
Mikedski is, in all probability, correct. Only the rearmost small fraction of the cylinder would be visible, given the very high speed at impact.
Quendil's only real problem with a "scale" diameter cylinder is: "What do you put inside that yawning cavity?" A big empty space like that calls for some kind of interior stuff, just to make it minimally convincing. Again, just a suggestion of structure to let the viewer's mind "fill in the blanks."
You can get some large diameter PVC pipe (pretty expensive) or maybe some kind of cardboard shipping tube. Worst case, you can roll it yourself from poster board. I used the poster board trick for a Saturn V booster that was about 8 inches in diameter. It would have been no problem to go larger. But, this makes a pretty thin wall.
A ring can be used to stiffen the tube and give the impression of a thick wall. Or you could use a couple of rings to fit a smaller diameter tube into the center of the larger one. With care, you could probably bend some thin foam core board to this size to get thicker walls.
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Post by talbot on Jun 9, 2016 20:02:37 GMT
If you are building it to true size using a train tunnel for where it fell to earth and sealing the other end might make a visually stunning and imposing piece for the table.
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Post by charleybourne on Jun 9, 2016 20:09:01 GMT
That's a great idea. Cut at an angle on the bottom to keep the opening, the rocky cover could be textured to look like the earth disturbed when the cylinder impacted and part buried itself.
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Post by boxholder on Jun 9, 2016 21:39:08 GMT
Good idea. A tunnel for G-gauge (aka LGB or garden railway) could work very well. It is also possible to use a tunnel sized for Lionel O gauge. Some of them are styrofoam that can easily be trimmed and are pretty inexpensive.
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Post by novista on Jun 11, 2016 8:14:42 GMT
Hmmm so I need to redo my cylinder and find a pipe 10 to 12" wide Or you could wipe this thread from your memory... Alternatively getting hold of that big yellow plastic pipe that gets laid when new estates are built could be alright?
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Post by Quendil on Jun 11, 2016 9:36:50 GMT
Hmmm so I need to redo my cylinder and find a pipe 10 to 12" wide Or you could wipe this thread from your memory... Alternatively getting hold of that big yellow plastic pipe that gets laid when new estates are built could be alright? The first one sounds the best idea. Although when I tongue in cheek suggested I need to redo it I did google different pipe sizes
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Post by madmorgan on Jun 11, 2016 13:51:03 GMT
Most excellent point boxholder - exactly the thought I have with my 1:144 planes, 1:288 zeps and various scale ships (1/600;1/1200;1/2400). I suppose it would be the same for the buildings. Theres a lot of HO (1/87) scale plastic models out there that are inexpensive and easy to build that work fine for AQ (1/92) if you don't fret the different in door/window sizes too much. Same for all those 1/72 plastic minis too. As I use 1/72 human armies as well, there is a really nice selection. In addition, most of Miniature Building Authority and Hirsh Arts models make for alot of variety for a bit more monies. Good stuff.
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Post by madmorgan on Jun 11, 2016 13:53:08 GMT
Ah the old 'train tunnel' - who hasn't had one during their years of trains as kids. Great thought for 'quick' cyclinder look!
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Post by boxholder on Jun 11, 2016 19:46:01 GMT
novista: the problem with that big yellow pipe is that it is usually polyethylene, so paint really doesn't like to stick to it. Nor do many adhesives either.
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Post by hardlec on Jun 16, 2016 16:06:48 GMT
One of my "wishes" is to take a kiddie pool and add details and scenery to make a crater in which to play miniatures. A 4 foot diameter pool is as big as I can manage to carry. While scale in not all that important, i.e. if I built it it would be cool enough to use, this giant crater would not be big enough to be a Martian redoubt, being a paltry 400 feet across while a redoubt is much bigger. If I ever build it, I'll use it and have fun.
In my area they replaced some water mains and I was able to collect a few feet of PVC pipe, broken jaggedly on one end, about 3 feet long and 10 inches in diameter. I had planned to use part of this as a damaged cylinder for the game table. (Slices of water main, about 1 1/2 inch "tall" and 10 inches across make dandy areas to toss dice into.) I may yet build a piece with associated landscape that occupies a 14-16 inch circle and looks way cool.
Build the thing, use the thing, have fun. POST PICTURES. I am much much more likely to say: "way cool cylinder, can I play?!" than to say "hey dude! its a millimeter out of scale."
And who's to say Martin and company didn't build cylinders of different sizes anyway?
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Post by madmorgan on Jun 17, 2016 22:19:04 GMT
Yeah, I'm with you on that, especially with some terrains. I 'push' alot of scale ideas simply to keep the pot stirred and make people think about scales, but, I think the game is the thing and as long as its not too much off its for fun not 'accuracy'. After all we are talking Martians here right? LOL
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