|
Post by boxholder on Nov 24, 2018 13:44:50 GMT
One practical consideration on rebasing: My troops are superglued to the base. There is a high probablility of damage or destruction during attempts to remove them. Troops without feet are not likely to be very useful for rebasing. My guys stay "as is" classic basing.
Regarding fire value of 3+2 split basing: It is pretty simple to declare that both pieces of a 3+2 split base must be present and in contact with each other to have normal fire value for the stand. If either section is killed, the whole stand is killed. This is exactly the same as when only one trooper on a classic 5-wide base is covered by a hit template - the whole stand is KIA. Remember that the 15 figures represent at company of 100 or so troops. The ~35 guys on one stand can be anywhere within the footprint of the base.
The reduced size base is an aesthetic choice to permit the base to fit into other geometries of terrain. To maintain the simplicity of the AQMF system, trying to get too fancy should be avoided. The poster child for excess is Advanced Squad Leader with is encyclopedia sized rules and procedures. I will always err to side of playability versus excessive "realism." This is a game.
As usual, my $0.02 US. YMMV
|
|
gunnyhighway
Scout Tripod
Just because your from Mars doesn't mean we can take warm showers in the wee hours of the morning...
Posts: 195
Send PM
|
Post by gunnyhighway on Nov 24, 2018 16:57:23 GMT
Something we may have to consider... the FOW bases barely fit into the trenches I assume Dave and co. bought with the hostile takeover . So if those are going to be part of the game that has to be kept in mind. Respectfully, Gunny
|
|
|
Post by hardlec on Nov 24, 2018 18:39:43 GMT
A couple drops of nail polish remover will dissolve superglue. This is how women remove their fake nails. It is a slow process and sometimes needs to be done repeatedly, i.e. apply the nail polish remover, wait a few moments, check if the figures are loose, remove those that are loose, re-apply to the stubborn ones.
It is a pain. A big pain. It is sometimes easier to cut the stand off the figure. Not a task to consider lightly. Definitely a task to be avoided if possible.
Now, I'm pretty sure there is a consensus that the "classic" stands are going to be allowed in future plans. So I'll be bold enough to say:
REBASING WILL BE OPTIONAL
I'm also thinking we need to use our experience to determine the right size to meet the needs of the game.
|
|
|
Post by bilko991 on Nov 25, 2018 2:37:07 GMT
A couple drops of nail polish remover will dissolve superglue. This is how women remove their fake nails. It is a slow process and sometimes needs to be done repeatedly, i.e. apply the nail polish remover, wait a few moments, check if the figures are loose, remove those that are loose, re-apply to the stubborn ones. That's a good tip right there, one I didn't know. Many thanks!
|
|
|
Post by David N.Tanner 07011959 on Nov 25, 2018 16:07:05 GMT
They also make a debonder for super glue. My local hobby store sells it. I find it works especially well on fingers.🤓
|
|
|
Post by bilko991 on Nov 26, 2018 3:35:43 GMT
They also make a debonder for super glue. My local hobby store sells it. I find it works especially well on fingers.🤓 I have many happy memories of glued fingers from my childhood, I wasn't too thrilled at the time however! I'll keep an eye out for the debonder you mention. I'm sure it'll come in handy
|
|
|
Post by scottwashburn on Nov 26, 2018 11:56:14 GMT
Of course if you've painted and flocked the base (as I do) then the debonder might have trouble getting to the glue
|
|
|
Post by boxholder on Nov 26, 2018 13:30:44 GMT
Correct, Mr Washburn. The acrylic paint can resist the debonder and other types will likely be dissolved by it. Some of the nailpolsih removers are acetone-based and that will have REALLY bad effects on plastics.
Mine are painted and flocked. I will just score or cut the plastic base and then touch-up the raw edges. Job done!
|
|
|
Post by hardlec on Nov 26, 2018 15:38:19 GMT
De-bonder is usually nail polish remover put in a smaller bottle. Nail polish remover is inexpensive and readily available at "dollar stores."
I usually do not flock bases, because I then have to deal with flock all over my storage cases. I do usually paint my bases. I am by no means an advocate of re-basing dozens of infantry models. I'd rather buy more troops.
I'm still an advocate for different stands.
|
|
|
Post by David N.Tanner 07011959 on Nov 26, 2018 18:37:07 GMT
De-bonder is usually nail polish remover put in a smaller bottle. Nail polish remover is inexpensive and readily available at "dollar stores." I usually do not flock bases, because I then have to deal with flock all over my storage cases. I do usually paint my bases. I am by no means an advocate of re-basing dozens of infantry models. I'd rather buy more troops. I'm still an advocate for different stands. I did not know that about debonder. Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by hardlec on Nov 26, 2018 23:08:24 GMT
Sorry to be so off target: Concerning Superglue
Nail polish remover or non-acetone nail polish remover are good debonders. Acetone is the best, it's not expensive but be careful with it. It is toxic and a pretty harsh solvent.
Isopropyl Alcohol and baking soda can both function as accelerators. Accelerators make a somewhat weaker bond but this is often not a concern. regular accelerator is much better.
Hot melt glue will not hold metal, plastic or resin well. It is possible to glue a joint with superglue, then hold the joint together with hot-melt glue until the superglue sets. I have occasionally dry fit a joint, held it in place with hot-melt glue, then applied thin superglue into the joint with capillary action.
|
|
|
Post by madmorgan on Dec 19, 2018 10:18:33 GMT
Okay, I'm in and will 'vote' after this soapbox. Long ago I started using a 3-man & 2-man approach to basing. This allowed squads to be placed in small buildings like row houses side-by-side while still keeping squads together (ie 2"). And its easy to assess damage - any hit that kills a 100 mm stand kills a 3 & a 2. In other words, one hit kills 5 infantry figures. As far as the 2nd edition rules, I'd say keep the large stand as a optional rule, with a nod towards 1st edition armies out there. So, those that use/like the 100 mm stands are't forced to change. Now OTOH - going to a 3 man basis is actually a preferred method to my mind. Having five 3 man elements to a squad would indeed allow more shots - but, why not? That's still lower that the 9 shots from a MG squad. The Brits will just be mounted on 2 man stands, again a total of 5 shots, 1 being from the coilgun. As an aside, was the actual WW1 infantry squad 15 men?? I'll need to research my own notes on that one!
|
|
|
Post by hardlec on Dec 22, 2018 15:06:29 GMT
Squads varied in size, with 11 as a standard but many exceptions. Two 5 man fire teams with one BAR and 4 riflemen each, and the squad leader. For the US in WWII. All riflemen in WWI.
I consider an infantry unit to be a platoon. Two rifle platoons and a support platoon (HMG) is my standard organization.
I'd actually prefer a 16 figure unit on 4 stands (elements) of 4 figures, with a 2 x 3 cm stand. The long, skinny stands are better for trenches and walls. The stouter stands make assaults easier and increase firepower and defence. They have many other advantages.
I'd like to see a "unit" of 3 stands of 3 figures, one stovepipe per stand. Stovepipe and HMG stands can be mixed and matched for support units.
My tuppence.
|
|
|
Post by riftsinger on Mar 1, 2019 14:31:42 GMT
hmm missed the vote but i wound have gone for the the same as now but not as long but i have brought some trenches from ironclad ( a uk company) which the currant stands fit so i have reason money wise , oh and yes i've been able to place my vote
|
|
|
Post by enakan on Mar 20, 2019 11:18:06 GMT
New here with the 1st edition boxed set. I have NOT put any infantry on bases yet. From past experience with other games, I had to got through base size changes between editions. Back and forth. It was a pain! Doable, but I think I cussed folks, ie game designers, for a week or three. But I don't own the game, I'll end up going with the flow to make it work and have fun. I will hold off basing infantry for now. I have had to watch using certain things to work on figures in the past. Especially plastic or resin ones. I've had my fair share of "heat ray" melted ones!!!
|
|