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Post by billf on Jan 19, 2017 12:53:14 GMT
I only get to play every couple of days. Real life intruding. I play 2-4 turns when I can.
Reducing the number of dice when shooting through friends could work. I'm still not a fan of it, but we should try it just to see what happens.
I think charging should still be a free action, just not a double move. I would have infantry be able to move 8" and shoot or charge either 10" or 12". Cavalry would move 12" and shoot or charge 16". This would be one or the other. I think being able to go up to 16" for infantry and up to 24" for cavalry is too much.
Battles in the Civil War were firepower driven. Charging was seen as a last resort. Something you did if there wasn't any other choice. So far my two games have been melee driven. I get 5 dice when I shoot and up to 10 dice in melee. Which gives me a better chance of making the enemy go away ?? Have to think on this one a bit.
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Post by boxholder on Jan 21, 2017 13:59:34 GMT
This is another case where the game world comes up differing with the real world.
Do you want the Teddys to fight just like humans or as something different in their "re-enacting" world? If more "realistic" fighting or troop performance is desired in the game, why not just use existing Am Civil War rules and simply substitute the Teddy troop minis?
This is a fantasy game world with FANTASY writ large. Really crazy stuff should prevail. Trying to make it too "realistic" moves it away from its fantasy roots.
My $0.02 US
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Post by slave2gaming on Jan 22, 2017 22:45:12 GMT
This is another case where the game world comes up differing with the real world. Do you want the Teddys to fight just like humans or as something different in their "re-enacting" world? If more "realistic" fighting or troop performance is desired in the game, why not just use existing Am Civil War rules and simply substitute the Teddy troop minis? This is a fantasy game world with FANTASY writ large. Really crazy stuff should prevail. Trying to make it too "realistic" moves it away from its fantasy roots. My $0.02 US Yep, Boxholder, fair call. My thoughts (at the moment) have been along the lines of making an easy Mass Battles system (focused ATM on Regimental level), only say 25 pages long. The Teddy fluff (pardon the pun) can then be added to make it more in line with the Teddy range. Ive recently bought both Black Powder (plus Glory Hallelujah) and Across a deadly field to look into more, but the enormity of these rules tends to be overwhelming. What we've changed int he Teddysburg rules hasnt made it too much more complicated, alot of this discussion has been on clearing up the rules wording. I'm just writing version 1.3 and realistically I think we've added about 3 - 4 pages since we started. Why not give the rules a go Boxholder? We'd love to have you onboard, for either the serious stuff or even just the silly punny stuff. I'm playtesting again tonight, so I'll be able to give the new rules a run.
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Post by billf on Jan 23, 2017 15:12:53 GMT
I finally finished the turn I was in the middle of. I will be trying the new ideas for the rest of this game.
Block formation Cannister only has 8" range, but no saves Shoot through friends, but only get 3 dice Infantry move 8" & shoot or charge 12" Cavalry move 12" & shoot or charge 16" Continuing woods melee until someone breaks
Did I forget anything ?
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Post by slave2gaming on Jan 23, 2017 21:33:46 GMT
Block formation Cannister only has 8" range, but no saves - I added the double canister with 12" and 4 wounds per dice (still only 2 dice to hit)Shoot through friends, but only get 3 dice - I also added a +1 the FTN for this, just makes it a little harder to shoot through friendlysInfantry move 8" & shoot or charge 12" - YepCavalry move 12" & shoot or charge 16" - YepContinuing woods melee until someone breaks - Yep  Did I forget anything ? - Panicked units moving around friendlys unless they cant, friendly units roll for panic if a panicked unit passes through it. - Shooting over friendlys is ok with elevation. Artillery is always considered to do this. - Charging a Panicked formation, base number of 9, it receives the -1 to armour (saves on 6) and +2 to their breaking point. - Making contact with multiple Formations with a charge, assign dice to appropriate opponent, do total wounds at the end of fight
There are a few other new things that I have added:
- Added Generals charging
- Added attaching Army commanders to units
- Added Regimental traits
We've got a fairly large convention on this weekend here in Oz, so i'd planned to upload the new rules next week sometime. Sorry, but they are not quite edited properly yet.
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Post by billf on Jan 23, 2017 23:12:45 GMT
I did forget a few didn't I. Sick today so I didn't get to do any playing. Maybe tomorrow. Whenever the next updated rules are ready, that'll be great.
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Post by easye on Jan 25, 2017 15:19:56 GMT
I finished the game I had going. The bat rep will be up on the blog on the 30th or so. I am a bit backlogged with posts.
One point that really sticks out at me from the game is that it was dead easy to charge in, but every time the charge seemed to fail and get thrown back. This happened as column attacked line formations, when cavalry attacked cavalry, but most disconcertingly when a cavalry unit in line got a flank attack on a infantry unit in line and the cavalry still lost! Sure, ACW cavalry generally sucked and were more dragoons, but they still should have been able to roll up that line easily and it just did not work that way.
The game needs some sort of flanking/rear attack mechanic. It is possible it was there and I just missed it, or that I was playing assaults wrong. I mean they did all fail. The only time it worked was against panicked enemies, and that seemed appropriate. I am torn by this result. Part of me is glad, because next time I won't both and will instead blaze away. That is more in line with ACW battles and therefore good.
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Post by billf on Jan 25, 2017 17:31:53 GMT
I finished my game too.
The block formation works ok. The 6 fire dice and 8 melee dice give it small advantage over units in line, but nothing significant.
Only getting 3 dice and needing an 8 to hit when shooting through a friendly unit worked too. Very few extra casualties were caused.
The continuous woods fighting was brutal. I had two fights in one turn where 3 of the 4 units broke, and the one left had 9 hits.
I am having to change my mind on cannister. It was actually too powerful. I had 3 different times when both dice were hits on double cannister. The 8 hits just eliminated 3 units from the game. They were so damaged as to be of very little use. The 6 hit from normal cannister was almost as bad. The units were panicked and then beaten in the first melee. It had too big an effect on the game. I think we need to back to cannister has a 12" range but you get saves. Smoothbore guns do 3 wounds per hit and rifled guns do 2 wounds per hit. Double cannister can still eliminate saves, but it's a special order that has to rolled for by the gun crew. The general can't help as that would make it too easy.
I also realized there is nothing in the rules about how guns take casualties and the effect of those casualties on the guns. How does that work ??
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Post by slave2gaming on Jan 26, 2017 10:57:54 GMT
I finished my game too.
Who won? North or South? Any pics?
The block formation works ok. The 6 fire dice and 8 melee dice give it small advantage over units in line, but nothing significant.
I found myself wondering if Line was too weak, I wondered whether to give it something to make it a bit better (maybe Line gets -1 to hit?). I just found myself thinking that Block was slightly better than Line for shooting.
Only getting 3 dice and needing an 8 to hit when shooting through a friendly unit worked too. Very few extra casualties were caused.
Yep, I found that too. You can shoot through, but it doesnt always do much.
The continuous woods fighting was brutal. I had two fights in one turn where 3 of the 4 units broke, and the one left had 9 hits.
Good to hear, we didn't get to the woods.
Is it too brutal?
I am having to change my mind on cannister. It was actually too powerful. I had 3 different times when both dice were hits on double cannister. The 8 hits just eliminated 3 units from the game. They were so damaged as to be of very little use. The 6 hit from normal cannister was almost as bad. The units were panicked and then beaten in the first melee. It had too big an effect on the game. I think we need to back to cannister has a 12" range but you get saves. Smoothbore guns do 3 wounds per hit and rifled guns do 2 wounds per hit. Double cannister can still eliminate saves, but it's a special order that has to rolled for by the gun crew. The general can't help as that would make it too easy.
My first thought is to actually make the weapon more expensive (maybe double cost?)
I'm undecided as to whether to go to the detail of smooth bore and Rifled Cannons, simply because what would be the reason that you would go with rifled guns? Is it cheaper? I sort of think that we keep it as a generic cannon that can do a cannon shot or two different versions of canister.
I do agree with the canister range and saves, we only got one single canister fire onto a unit, but it seriously screwed them up.
I also realized there is nothing in the rules about how guns take casualties and the effect of those casualties on the guns. How does that work ??
Um, I hadn't thought of that...
I guess, they have 2 stands for the battery, so based on the current rules they will panic after one wound and break after 2, be removed after 4 wounds... But that doesn't sound right.
I'll think about it. Any thoughts yourself?
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Post by slave2gaming on Jan 26, 2017 11:08:26 GMT
I finished the game I had going. The bat rep will be up on the blog on the 30th or so. I am a bit backlogged with posts. Cool, looking forward to hearing it.  One point that really sticks out at me from the game is that it was dead easy to charge in, but every time the charge seemed to fail and get thrown back. This happened as column attacked line formations, when cavalry attacked cavalry, but most disconcertingly when a cavalry unit in line got a flank attack on a infantry unit in line and the cavalry still lost! Sure, ACW cavalry generally sucked and were more dragoons, but they still should have been able to roll up that line easily and it just did not work that way. Did you roll 5's to hit? Cavalry get a -1 for assault and -1 for the charge. We forgot this in the first attack and it failed, the next charge only failed because my opponent didn't roll above 4!The game needs some sort of flanking/rear attack mechanic. It is possible it was there and I just missed it, or that I was playing assaults wrong. I mean they did all fail. The only time it worked was against panicked enemies, and that seemed appropriate. I am torn by this result. Part of me is glad, because next time I won't both and will instead blaze away. That is more in line with ACW battles and therefore good. Ok cool, its not in there, but if its not working without it, then lets do it.
What about adding something to the breaking point, say a +1 to the flank, +2 to the rear. The +2 to their break point means that they add 2 to the final number of wounds when working out who breaks from the combat. This also adds to the double wounds for the formation, and can lead the regiment to be removed from the board. They're not actual wounds, they just cause the unit to have an extra 1 or 2 points to see who runs away.
This is what I plan to use with attacking broken units.
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Post by billf on Jan 26, 2017 16:02:14 GMT
I didn't take any pictures this time. I'm going to try a smaller game next. Going to use 3 infantry, 1 cavalry, and 1 gun per side. The blue will get a rifled gun and the grey a smoothbore. I want to see what the difference is on the table.
As long as you don't mind that the figures are 28mm seven years war Prussians and Russians, I will take pictures and put them up on the facebook page.
The woods fighting was very brutal. I think we need to put in the ability we talked about for a unit to be able to make a die roll to leave the melee if they want to. The way it is now,given average die rolls,by the end of the fight both sides are toast. While it was nasty, it shouldn't force both sides to be ruined at the end.
Now on to our biggest headache so far, artillery.
The main difference between smoothbore and rifled guns is range. A rifle can hit the enemy sooner and hopefully hurt them when there's nothing they can do about it. Rifled guns were primarily a Union gun.
The Union had a standard battery organization. All batteries were 6 guns. The smoothbore guns were all 12# Napoleons. The rifled guns were either 10# Parrots or 3" Rodmans. Approximately 60% of the Union batteries were rifled guns. It's important for the North to be able have those guns if they want them.
The Confederate's on the other hand, we're a mish mash. While almost almost all of their batteries were 4 guns, they were mixed. Most had smoothbore and rifled guns mixed together. As the war went on they tried to standardize, but never got more than 15-20% of their batteries reorganized. Rifled guns aren't as important to the south, but they should still have the option to buy them.
So far I have only used single gun models. I haven't tried the battery with 2 guns side by side. I do think they are too cheap. With decent dice they have a much bigger effect than their points. I think a single gun should cost between 8-10 points and a 2 gun battery between 16-20 points. Right now 5 infantry units cost 25 points. For those same 25 points I can get 10 guns. Too cheap.
The gunners were stubborn,tenacious, and fought hard to keep their guns. They were very hard to drive off. I'm going to try these ideas out.
Single gun with 4 crew
Take 4 hits - become panicked Take 8 hits - become broken Take 12 hits - destroyed
Two guns with 8 crew
Take 6 hits - become panicked Take 12 hits - become broken Take 16 hits - destroyed
Just ideas to try.
I didn't have any rear or flank attacks, so no chance to see if the extra 3 did much. Maybe this time.
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Post by slave2gaming on Jan 30, 2017 0:41:56 GMT
Sorry for the late reply, I was at our big con for the year, shaking hands and trying to look professional!
I didn't take any pictures this time. I'm going to try a smaller game next. Going to use 3 infantry, 1 cavalry, and 1 gun per side. The blue will get a rifled gun and the grey a smoothbore. I want to see what the difference is on the table. As long as you don't mind that the figures are 28mm seven years war Prussians and Russians, I will take pictures and put them up on the facebook page. Yep, thats fine. Just happy to see how people are playing.The woods fighting was very brutal. I think we need to put in the ability we talked about for a unit to be able to make a die roll to leave the melee if they want to. The way it is now,given average die rolls,by the end of the fight both sides are toast. While it was nasty, it shouldn't force both sides to be ruined at the end. Ok sounds good, so this would still be a 9 to roll for? Would an army General able to be used?Now on to our biggest headache so far, artillery. The main difference between smoothbore and rifled guns is range. A rifle can hit the enemy sooner and hopefully hurt them when there's nothing they can do about it. Rifled guns were primarily a Union gun. The Union had a standard battery organization. All batteries were 6 guns. The smoothbore guns were all 12# Napoleons. The rifled guns were either 10# Parrots or 3" Rodmans. Approximately 60% of the Union batteries were rifled guns. It's important for the North to be able have those guns if they want them. The Confederate's on the other hand, we're a mish mash. While almost almost all of their batteries were 4 guns, they were mixed. Most had smoothbore and rifled guns mixed together. As the war went on they tried to standardize, but never got more than 15-20% of their batteries reorganized. Rifled guns aren't as important to the south, but they should still have the option to buy them. Ok, fair call. So far I have only used single gun models. I haven't tried the battery with 2 guns side by side. I do think they are too cheap. With decent dice they have a much bigger effect than their points. I think a single gun should cost between 8-10 points and a 2 gun battery between 16-20 points. Right now 5 infantry units cost 25 points. For those same 25 points I can get 10 guns. Too cheap. Yep, true. So the first though would be to make Smoothbore say 10points (just double the cost), the rifled would be say 15points.
My thought with range is to make the ball shot in the chart go back to a 20" shot (10" for Canister) and adding +4" for all rifled cannons shots. This would mean that a smoothbore would have 20" for a ball shot & 10" for Canister, a rifled cannon would have 24" ball shot and 14" Canister (just a thought, does that seem appropriate ranges for those guns of that time?)The gunners were stubborn,tenacious, and fought hard to keep their guns. They were very hard to drive off. I'm going to try these ideas out. Single gun with 4 crew Take 4 hits - become panicked Take 8 hits - become broken Take 12 hits - destroyed Two guns with 8 crew Take 6 hits - become panicked Take 12 hits - become broken Take 16 hits - destroyed Ok, ill add these to the 1.3 version rules and see how that goes.Just ideas to try. I didn't have any rear or flank attacks, so no chance to see if the extra 3 did much. Maybe this time.
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Post by slave2gaming on Jan 30, 2017 0:42:49 GMT
I'll chuck up the new rules once we sort out the ranges & costs for the Artillery
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Post by madmorgan on Jan 30, 2017 12:15:25 GMT
What an excellent write up billf! I also agree that cannister is devastating and should get No Save (simple).
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Post by madmorgan on Jan 30, 2017 12:34:31 GMT
For my part, I'd think that infantry being charged would get a volley off at the attackers before melee. Many a charge was disrupted by a musket volley as the chargers came home, with the result being a less effective charge. For that matter, most tactics were a volley then bayonet charge as the usual practice. As to battlefield speed, you could always reduce it movement by 1/2 and then add a +3" for charges.
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