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Post by loyalist on Dec 18, 2016 16:43:03 GMT
I started to assemble a Dominator today. I looked at the Dominator photos on the IG site and in the Foss Landing scenario and saw a ring under the resin body immediately above the plastic body. It appears to be about 1.5mm thick and is the full width of the projections from the lower end of the resin body. There's no ring in the kit so I'm wondering if it's missing.
I think the model would look better with the ring as shown in the original photos and will make one if it's not supposed to be part of the retail kit.
There are no instructions re how to attach the resin body to the plastic one. I drilled a 1/16" hole through the center of the resin body, another into the head. I cut off the fin on top of the plastic body and drilled a 1/16" hole through it after adding 3 mm of solid styrene inside. A 1/16" brass rod will align the parts and add some strength.
I'm wondering how well paint will adhere to the head. After repeated soakings in hot soapy water and scrubbing with abrasive cleaner (Comet) it's still shiny and slippery.
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Post by Quendil on Dec 18, 2016 16:52:14 GMT
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Post by loyalist on Dec 18, 2016 17:00:14 GMT
I guess the ring isn't part of the kit. I've applied multiple very light coats of GW Chaos Black primer to the shiny head; it's completely black now and the primer isn't rubbing off. So far so good. The round plug in the bottom of the head is smaller than the hole in the top of the body so the edges of the hole can be seen on the sides. I found a stainless steel washer exactly the same width as the cylindrical body (without the projections) and drilled out the hole in the washer so the plug on the head fits into it. The washer hides the edges of the hole. I'm making a styrene ring to add to the bottom of the resin body as in the Dominator photos. It'll be the maximum diameter of the body, including the projections.
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Post by loyalist on Dec 19, 2016 0:10:14 GMT
I wrote too soon. The paint had not adhered as well as I thought; in fact it came off very easily when rubbed with a blunt object (I'd tried a facecloth first).
Over the last few hours I've tried every solvent in my shop without removing the waxy sheen that's preventing paint adhesion: detergents including Simple Green, abrasive powdered cleaners, mineral spirits, paint thinners, Varsol, DOT 3 brake fluid, gel paint and varnish stripper, and acetone. Whatever the coating is it's impervious to everything I have. It isn't an especially shiny resin surface because it's impervious to acetone.
I suspect this is some type of mould release agent but like nothing I've encountered before or used. Forge World used to sell resin models that needed a lot of prep work before paint would adhere, but nothing like this. At least the various solvents completely removed all of the black primer.
Having exhausted all available options and having to travel to another province for the rest of the week, this model's going back in the box until I can buy some isopropyl alcohol. That was suggested by Boxholder in another thread about this Dominator paint adhesion problem, which it turns out is not unique to my model. If that doesn't work I'll have to buy some Vallejo primer - that worked for Quendil. It's rather annoying to go through all this effort and then have to buy more solvents/primers in the hope that paint will eventually stick to the model!
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Post by boxholder on Dec 19, 2016 1:27:35 GMT
If you are going solvent shopping, you might as well get some denatured ethyl alcohol. Sometimes the simpler things work.
The local drugstore/pharmacy may have the isopropyl (aka rubbing alcohol) for you.
IF you want, you can get UNDENATURED ethanol (aka pure grain alcohol-190 proof) at the liquor store. Its biggest advantage is that you can drink it if it doesn't cut the release agent.
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Post by loyalist on Dec 19, 2016 5:34:13 GMT
Isopropyl is cheap. I might try a dash of Scotch on it and see how than works before I spend more $$ on high proof ETOH. I've sanded some of the crap off the wider surfaces with #400 wet and dry paper but I'll never get it off the details that way.
One of my Mk IV monitors had this stuff on it but not as thick and most of it came off after several scrubbings with Comet and a stiff brush.
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Post by madmorgan on Dec 19, 2016 22:56:13 GMT
Egads - might be time to try oil paints on the dang thing!
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Post by loyalist on Dec 20, 2016 0:36:36 GMT
Egads - might be time to try oil paints on the dang thing! Oil paints need primer too. This kit has gone back in the box until I find a solvent that'll take that shiny coat off. If I can't I may send it back to IG and request a replacement without that stuff on it; alternatively I can sand most surfaces likely to be touched so primer will stick there, and hope that a few coats of protective acrylic spray will keep the paint on the rest of it. I see from the link Quendil provided that this is not a new problem with the Dominator head. I've emailed IG and asked what the coating is and how to get rid of it.
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Post by hardlec on Dec 20, 2016 1:25:09 GMT
Krylon ColorMaster or Fusion tends to work on resin and plastic.
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Post by farkongnome on Dec 20, 2016 17:50:06 GMT
I use Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2x Primer Spray -- that stuff bonds to just about everything and I've yet to have a problem where paint has sloughed off in my 10 years of using it. The best part is that it's really cheap where i get it from - $2 for a can. I've used it on Resin, Plastic, Metal, and wood and never had any issues with it.
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Post by loyalist on Dec 21, 2016 18:47:13 GMT
Krylon ColorMaster or Fusion tends to work on resin and plastic. GW's Chaos Black primer is formulated for metal or plastic and in my years of using it has always adhered well to resin. It won't adhere to the Dominator head.
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Post by loyalist on Dec 21, 2016 18:48:18 GMT
I use Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2x Primer Spray -- that stuff bonds to just about everything and I've yet to have a problem where paint has sloughed off in my 10 years of using it. The best part is that it's really cheap where i get it from - $2 for a can. I've used it on Resin, Plastic, Metal, and wood and never had any issues with it. I haven't seen that brand in Canada.
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Post by hardlec on Dec 22, 2016 3:32:19 GMT
Pardon my prejudice, but I have yet to find any GW, Citadel or Forge World product worth its price or satisfactory at all, especially their paint. GW plastic junk needs Citadel primer, other stuff doesn't stick. Citadel paint is the worst paint ever. The primer does make into the low mediocre range. Krylon ColorMaster will stick to polyethylene plastic. Very little sticks to polyethylene. I wish it came in a version for use in an airbrush. I am allergic to the propellent in spray cans.
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Post by madmorgan on Dec 22, 2016 3:38:49 GMT
Gads, don't they make a can of brush ready of that. Love the Krylon paint lines for lots of reasons.
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Post by farkongnome on Dec 22, 2016 14:00:40 GMT
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