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Post by easye on Nov 16, 2016 15:04:17 GMT
So, I have been running into some issues getting my drones together. The legs do not seem to want to cooperate. These are regular and Scorpion drones.
Any suggestions?
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Post by tenchuu on Nov 16, 2016 16:00:06 GMT
We need more detail than that the legs don't want to cooperate. How?
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Post by loyalist on Nov 16, 2016 16:43:47 GMT
I had problems attaching the legs (and equivalents on the Hover drones) with every one of my 39 drone models. The legs are much too thin to fit snugly in the grooves for them in the drone body - they should be almost twice as thick. The only way I could attach them was by using thick, slow setting ca glue, holding each leg in the approximate center of the groove and spraying the glue with ca accelerant.
I had problems with the legs on all of the large tripods with metal legs and bodies too. Again, the part of the legs that goes into the slots in the body is much too thin. Same technique was used to attach the legs but to give more strength I had to build up layers of accelerant-sprayed ca glue inside the hollow body at the leg locations. I was still concerned about lack of strength at the joints so installed all the metal tripods on bases with the tips of the legs glued into holes. (I did the same with all the drone legs.)
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Post by terrance on Nov 16, 2016 19:39:59 GMT
The drone legs are a problem. I use white glue on one piece and super glue on the other. If you get the proportions right it sets up in just a few seconds. I remember someone else saying they pushed the parts into modeling clay to hold them in position while the glue dried.
For the metal tripod legs I have been applying glue putting the legs and cover in place then using a clamp to hold it all together-all the while trying to not get my fingers glued to the legs. Then set the legs standing up and position them the way I want. Then walk away for a couple of hours.
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Post by boxholder on Nov 16, 2016 19:44:18 GMT
Loyalist:
You did about the best thing you could. When CA sets up it is effectively plexiglas adhered to the parts. Compared to the thin metal parts, it is probably stronger although I would not be inclined to test this empirically. I'd bet that the tab on the leg breaks before the CA joint.
Faced with similar problem, I use baking soda to pack the oversize slot. Hold the parts together (blocks, plastic sprue, clamps, anything), pack in the soda in the loose joint, and then drop in some THIN CA. It will wick into the soda and set pronto. If you need more fill you can use a toothpick or hobby knife blade to trowel in more soda. Then CA it too. For a short time, the fill can be easily cut with hobby knife to trim excess. After it hardens fully, it is very hard to the extent that sanding is needed.
The three point mount into the base is exceedingly good practice.
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Post by terrance on Nov 16, 2016 19:46:44 GMT
Boxholder, thanks for reminding me of the baking soda solution. I had heard of this before but forgotten. Going to have to give it a try now.
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Post by easye on Nov 21, 2016 22:15:01 GMT
I ended up putting the main body on clay stands and using GS to fill the gaps and sticking the legs in.
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Post by scottwashburn on Dec 1, 2016 20:49:19 GMT
Yes, I use clay to hold the legs in place while I use 5-minute epoxy to glue them in. Unfortunately some of the clay often gets caught in the epoxy and I have to scrape it out.
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Post by madmorgan on Dec 1, 2016 22:28:41 GMT
Always love these modeling discussion - I learn so much!
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